- #EIS R6 MANUAL#
- #EIS R6 FULL#
- #EIS R6 ISO#
Lens drive when AF impossible: off (if the camera can’t focus correctly, it will stop and wait for you to re-engage the AF.Switching tracked subjects: 1 (determines how the camera prioritise the subject when engaging focus, I find the middle setting to work best in all cases).It’s for low light situations and you wouldn’t want to risk drawing attention in the wild anyway) AF-assist beam firing: Off (it’s the little red light that turns on every time you focus.
#EIS R6 MANUAL#
Focus Guide: On (this is the best manual focus assist if you ever need to work in manual focus, because it uses the Dual Pixel CMOS AF system to guide you in focusing correctly). I don’t find this necessary and it will drain the battery more) Continuous AF (AF1): disabled (if enabled, the camera will constantly attempt to focus, even when AF-ON or the shutter release button are not pressed. Here is how they are configured on my R6: In the various AF menu pages you will find other settings. For birds in flight, I’ve got good results with the following: I’d leave these settings to their default values with static subjects. The final option sets how quickly the camera should switch AF points to track a subject that moves a lot inside the frame. The EOS R doesn’t have the Servo AF cases, but on page AF 3 you can configure Tracking sensitivity, Acceleration / Deceleration and AF point Auto switching. In my various tests, I didn’t find the need to change the default settings of Case 1 and Case 3. I choose Case 3 with birds in flight if they move fast and unpredictably, like at the Red Kite feeding station. I find Case 1 to work fine for most subjects. Set -2 or -1 for subjects that have a constant speed, +1 or +2 for subjects that have sudden movements or change of speed. Acceleration / Deceleration Tracking: determines how the camera should react to sudden changes of movements or speed. With -2 (locked-on), the camera will ignore other subjects, with +2 (responsive) it will focus on the closest subject, or new subjects that enter the AF area. Tracking Sensitivity: determines if the camera should ignore or prioritise other potential subjects that move around your main subject. Of course, in real-world scenarios, you’ll need a very still subject to use slow shutter speeds.Įach Servo AF case is made of two settings that can be modified (except Auto): This means that sharp shots taken at 1/50s or 1/100s are very much possible with these cameras. The keeper rate is not perfect but it shows you how good the stabilisation system is. You either activate or deactivate everything at once.īelow is a test image I took at 1/20s hand-held with the 600mm F11. Note that you can’t separate IBIS and optical stabilisation. #EIS R6 ISO#
When using long telephoto lenses, image stabilisation (IS) is useful for two reasons : A) you can use relatively slow shutter speeds and keep your ISO down with static subjects 2) you get a more stable view in the EVF while framing the shot, because stabilisation activates when you half press the shutter button.Ĭanon RF telephoto lenses have an excellent stabilisation rating, and the performance improves a little with the R5 and R6 that have in-body image stabilisation. RAW gives you much more freedom of adjustment than a JPG file.Ĭanon R5 / R6 for Wildlife – Image stabilisation Light conditions can be tricky outdoors, so you may need to open the shadows, decrease the highlights and, occasionally, recover the exposure by 1 stop or more. I always shoot in RAW format when taking pictures of animals, because I like to have as much versatility as possible in post-production. Shooting Menu: SHOOT 1 > Image quality (or Q menu) Thank you!Ĭanon R5 / R6 Wildlife Photography – Image quality
#EIS R6 FULL#
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